The study
- 3
- Workshops Paris, Lyon, Tunis
- 37
- Studio visits 2024–2026
- 18
- Dye logs read Spanning nine years
- 11
- Makers interviewed
Method
How the material was gathered, and what was deliberately left out.
The research combined studio visits, semi-structured interviews and close reading of dye logs. Visits were unstructured by design: makers were asked to work rather than to explain, and questions followed what happened.
No attempt was made to verify claims about material behaviour against laboratory data. The object of study is the reasoning, not the chemistry.
Findings
Three patterns that held across every workshop.
First, makers describe material decisions in cognitive terms without prompting. The cloth ‘tells them’ what it needs; a bath ‘wants’ another hour. We treat this not as loose metaphor but as a report of situated, embodied expertise — the same way a clinician reports a hunch that turns out to be pattern recognition.
Second, the reasoning is documented. Every workshop kept logs, and the logs record deliberation, not just outcomes: abandoned baths, changed minds, notes on weather.
Third, none of this survives into the catalogue record. A finished work is described by fibre, dye and dimensions — the three facts that carry the least of the decision.
What the catalogue records
Fibre. Dye. Dimensions. Year. Edition, where relevant.
What the log records
Bath temperature and duration. Weather. Which immersion was wrong and why. What was done instead.
Terms used in this paper
- Material intelligence
Expertise that is exercised through handling rather than stated in advance, and which is legible in the record of the making.
- Dye log
A working notebook recording bath composition, timing and conditions for each immersion.
- Situated expertise
Knowledge that cannot be fully separated from the conditions in which it is used.
What follows
A proposal about records.
If the reasoning is documented and the documentation is discarded, the remedy is not interpretive but administrative. We propose that the dye log — or an extract from it — be treated as part of the work's record, held with the provenance file rather than in the studio.
This is a modest change with an immodest consequence: it makes the labour in the object visible to everyone who handles it afterwards.
The cloth tells you what it needs; the skill is in listening.
Notes
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Workshops are anonymised at their request; dye logs were read on site and not copied.
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The clinician comparison is borrowed from the literature on tacit knowledge and is not meant to imply diagnostic accuracy.
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Two of the eleven makers dispute the framing of ‘expertise’ and prefer ‘habit’. The disagreement is recorded here rather than resolved.
References
- The Tacit Dimension Michael Polanyi, 1966
- Thinking Through Craft Glenn Adamson, 2007
- Dye logs as documents: a note on method Textile History, 2024